I'm in the White Mountains today. Mount
Moosilauki is the first of the Whites we cross. All of the hype about how we would be lucky to do 10 miles a day seems to be untrue. I did a 17 mile day after getting a fairly late start and getting into Eliza Brook shelter a little after 5:00 PM. I considered continuing to a campsite 4 miles further, but there is a steep climb and the trail is rugged. I was concerned that if anything delayed me, I would be on the trail after dark.
This part of the trail is
extremely rugged and dangerous. I heard from many people that the last 20% of the trail will take 80% of the effort. I think people are confusing physical danger with physical difficulty.
I think the next 200 miles will be
extremely dangerous. There are many climbs and
descents on a steep (often vertical) rocks. A sign at the south bottom of
Moosilauki described the trail as
extremely dangerous with the possibility of tragic consequences. There was no warnings at the north side or top.
I'm on the trail between Kinsman Notch and
Franconia Notch. This part of the trail is rugged with few views. I've been scrambling up and down boulders all afternoon. There are also many ankle deep mucky areas that are hard to get around. The rocks are very slippery and dangerous.
I should be on
Franconia Ridge tomorrow afternoon. Many believe this is the most beautiful section of the entire trail.
I also get to experience the huts and tourists tomorrow. I'm going to try to do work for stay at at least one hut. The huts have left overs for sale during the day. I also hear that the tourists like to feed the hikers. My food bag is low so I'm hoping for some handouts.
I have 381 miles to go. If I stay healthy and uninjured, I can finish by the August 16
th weekend. I also will have 1,800 miles done tomorrow. I'm hoping this starts to feel like a lot when I get into Maine.
V8 was at the hostile to slack pack with Certain who was also at the hostile. Lizard and Stripe also joined the slack pack. Auntie Mame was supposed to join them with another car, but I did not see her.
Bear Paw is helping Phat Chap run the hostile. I met Bear Paw earlier on the trail, but I do not remember where. She has a distinctive bear paw
tattooed on her chest. She said she got off the trail before the
Shanandoahs. Also at the hostile were Savage (Lizard's husband), Iowa Bebe, and
Pipper. Baltimore Jack and his friend were also at the hostile, but staying in the house.
Pipper is pushing to finish the trail by August 12. That's over 21 miles per day average. My guess is that if you try to do that many miles a day on this section, you significantly increase your risk of injury. The trail is too rugged to go fast here.
Most hostiles on the trail are extremely primitive. We had electricity and a computer with
Internet, but no indoor plumbing or phone service. Some hostiles do not even have electricity. A cool hostile that I may have to skip because I do not want to take time away from the Whites is Chet's house.
Chet was a hiker who wanted to do the trail until an
MSR fuel bottle blew up in his face severely burning, blinding, and crippling him. He got a settlement so it sounds like it was not his fault. This is another reason to use alcohol stoves.